Each aquarium will have its own specific maintenance program depending on factors such as the type and size of the tank, number and species of occupants, presence of plants, type of equipment and water parameters. Daily maintenance is required for most aquaria even if this is only feeding and observing the fish. However, daily maintenance should also include a quick check of vital life support equipment such as heaters, aeration and filters to ensure they are switched on and working correctly.
CORRECT TANK SET-UP AND MAINTENANCE
When setting up a tank, it is important to avoid it from being exposed to direct sunlight. This will avoid excess algal growth along with unwanted temperature variations. By placing it in a shaded area, the lighting used for the aquarium will be enough to do the job. If the tank is to be placed on top of a stand, it is essential to consider the weight of the tank with all its components. Make sure the stand is sturdy and steady, which should be strong enough to hold the whole tank up and firm enough to avoid the tank from tilting. A leaking tank will cause problems inside the tank as well as outside the tank. Therefore, it is necessary to make sure the tank is watertight.
Maintaining equipment in good conditions is perhaps easier and more manageable in freshwater tanks than for saltwater tanks due to corrosion. Heaters, for example, may easily become rusty, giving way to inefficient performance. A constant check-up for rust or cracks on the glass of this device will make sure occurrences like these are out of the way. Keeping spares of diaphragms for your pump may be a helpful thing to have. They are cost effective and very easy to replace. Small pumps require one diaphragm, while larger pumps may require two or more. Keeping a spare pump may also be useful in case of emergency. Air stones should be frequently replaced as they are constantly clogging up and cleaning them might cause them to disintegrate. In terms of air hoses, it is advisable to have good quality ones, which will cost a bit more, but will avoid the fact of having to be constantly replaced. A good filtration system is perhaps one of the most important things to maintain clean and efficiently working in order to avoid excess tank cleaning along with keeping the aquatic organisms healthy. It is highly recommended to have a few spares of filters such as internal power filters, external canister filters, and power heads, along with a spare of a seal-ring and an extra impeller, which are among the most common sources that can fail.
Checking the Lighting Before checking the light system (this preventative measure goes for heaters too), make sure the electrical appliances are unplugged to avoid the chances of an electrical shock. Aquarium lamps are now available in a range of different types from the old fashioned fluorescent tubes and high intensity metal halides to recent advances in LED technology. Most lamp types have bulbs which fall in light intensity over time and need regular replacement even though they still may be providing light. Once light
intensity falls with age, a fact that many aquarists may not be aware off, the bulb must be replaced, otherwise plant growth will suffer from this falling intensity. Many aquarists who have densely planted tanks often replace these types of bulbs every 6 months before a sufficient drop in light has occurred. Metal halide and other forms of HID lighting also require regular bulb replacement due to light fall-off over time and usually the number of hours at a given intensity is listed on the bulb packaging or product information. Newer lighting technology such as LEDs have a much lower power consumption and considerably longer usable life (i.e. many years rather than months) before they need replacement. Light meters that measure PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) can be used to measure the light output of aquarium lamps to determine when light intensity has fallen and the bulb needs replacement. Even though light tubes do not tend to fail easily, having a spare set of light tubes is advised.
Checking the Temperature Rapid changes in water temperature or sudden failures of heaters can and do often result in fish death. Electricity outages are a common problem in some areas and in cool winter conditions can be a major emergency for aquarists since not only heaters, but also aeration and filtration equipment are all affected. A short power outage may not be an issue as aquariums can be covered with thick insulated blankets or other materials to maintain heat for as long as possible, however electricity cuts for longer than a few hours can be a major issue if air temperatures are cooler than 20oC. In summer, power cuts can affect chillers and aeration resulting in a lack of dissolved oxygen replacement in the aquarium. Use of ice and manual aeration can be used in an emergency situation. All aquariums should be fitted with a highly visible thermometer – those that stick onto the front of the glass are ideal as they can be checked with a quick glance on a regular basis. Touching the front of the glass of the tropical, heated thank usually also gives a good indication that temperatures are in the correct 22-28oC range. In warmer climates or in summer, temperatures in even tropical fish tanks may increase past the upper range for many fish species and in this case, a daily task is to check to ensure this is not occurring, or if it is, to cool the tank water down slowly with use of water change or bags filled with ice.
Filter Maintenance The frequency and of maintenance required will depend on the type of filtration system in use.
Most aquariums will have more than one method of filtration and most have a combination of biological, mechanical and chemical filters with additional methods such as UV filtration in use by some aquarists. Mechanical filters which often have a course sponge like material used to trap sediment and debris need weekly attention in heavily populated tanks. These trapped solids can be rinsed from the filter material in many mechanical filters or may need replacement each time in other models. Chemical filters such as those which use activated carbon or other materials need to be checked they are not clogged with debris weekly, and depending on the size of the filter may need replacement of the filter substrate every few weeks, or more frequently if medications or other chemicals have been used in the tank. Biological filters should be checked, but not disturbed frequently as they rely on the beneficial bacteria present in the water to convert fish wastes into nitrate via the nitrogen cycle. Disturbance or vigorous cleaning can remove these beneficial bacteria resulting in disruption to the biological filtration and resulting in alarming increases in toxic ammonia and nitrite. UV filters which use ultra violet light to kill bacteria, algae and fungal spores in the water require regular checking to ensure any pre-filter material is cleaned of debris and that the UV light bulb is working. UV bulbs need replacement when they output falls below a certain level and the product packaging will usually give details of how many hours of operation can be obtained from a bulb before replacement is required. Often the sudden appearance of green algae growth in the water signals that the UV bulb needs replacement.
Checking and Maintaining Water Quality There are a wide range of tests, meters and equipment available for checking and adjusting the composition of the aquarium water and this should form an important part of the regular maintenance of any tank. Water quality changes over time as the fish, plants, filtration system and other occupants alter the chemistry of the water. While the initial water added to the aquarium may have been optimal in terms of composition, these changes mean that conditions can become unsuitable for fish and plants in a relatively short time span. Depending the size and volume of the aquarium and number of inhabitants, regular checks of water chemistry factors should be carried out daily in the initial stages of setting up a new tank, and then weekly once the tank has matured and the biological filtration system is working effectively. There are simple test kits available from aquarium supplies for a range of water quality factors such as Ammonia, Nitrate, pH, hardness, nitrite, chlorine, copper, iron, dissolved oxygen and carbon dioxide as well as electronic meters for pH, EC (electrical conductivity) and ppm. These allow a quick check of the water quality in between regular water changes to ensure tank water stays within the optimum range.
Fish Observation Checking the fish are healthy, happy and feeding well is one of the most important tasks which should be carried out daily. The best time to do this is at feeding time; however nocturnal feeders may need to be checked at night. All fish should feed actively and this is a good time to observe any bulling or fin nipping. Overpopulated tanks will increase the load of debris and toxins on your filtration system. Aquarists should also check for any changes in behaviour such as under or over activity, hiding and general fish body condition and health.
Plant Maintenance Just like an outdoor garden, aquarium plants need regular care and maintenance. Given the restricted volume and space inside the aquarium, growth needs regular trimming and pruning to maintain adequate light penetration down to the lower layers of the tank and so that fish can be easily viewed from the front. Weekly maintenance includes removal of dead and decaying leaves, trimming of stems which have become too tall and reached the water’s surface and in some cases, fertilisation with specific plant foods to maintain growth. Monthly or less frequent maintenance includes plant propagation via cuttings or removal of plantlets which have formed on adventitious stems of some plant species, if this is not carried out plant density can increase over time creating overcrowded conditions. Young plants may benefit from having the growing points on stems pinched out so that they remain compact and bush out rather than having a few very tall stems. Every few months in heavily planted aquaria, plants which have become too large may need to be removed and new, smaller specimens planted out – this `aqua-scaping’ is an ongoing process in tanks with rapid plant growth.
Algae Removal Part of the regular maintenance schedule of many aquariums is the removal and control of algae growth. Algae may not be problem in all tanks as it is dependent on the presence of light, nutrients such as nitrate and phosphate and treatment factors such as the use of UV filters which kill free floating algae. Algae growth on glass surfaces requires removal so that the tank inhabitants can be clearly viewed. This can be achieved with the use of algae magnet scrapers while the tank is still filled with water, or manual removal when a partial water change is being carried out with the use of the correct type of cloth materials. Care should be taken with this process as sharp bladed algae scrapers can damage and cut silicon sealant which holds the glass sides in place.
Regular Vacuuming Gravel vacuuming is essential for getting rid of debris trapped in the gravel and at the bottom of the tank. The best way to do this is with a gravel vacuum, without having to remove any fish, plants ornaments or other equipment out of the tank.
The gravel vacuum should be placed in the gravel at the bottom of the tank and attached to one end of a siphon tube. The other end of the siphon should be pointing towards an empty bucket, which should be positioned below the water level that’s inside the tank. The water is then siphoned out allowing the dirty water to fall into the bucket. There are different ways of getting the siphon started but the most common one is by “suck-starting”, which consists of sucking the bucket end of the siphon tube with your mouth to let the water out of the tank and into the bucket (you can use your thumb as a stopper to block the end of the tube preventing the water from entering your mouth, as well as for stopping the flow of water after the gravel in the tank obtains a clear appearance). Other methods that can be used consists in starting it with a priming ball, by immersion or shake starting it a flow control valve. While vacuuming, make sure you produce gentle straight motions across the gravel instead of up and down movements (this will prevent the debris from floating in the water and making more mess). Gravel vacuum cleaners with a wide nozzle are more efficient cleaners than those with a narrower nozzle, and they help avoid removing the beneficial bacteria from the gravel bed.
Regular Water Changes Water changes should be done frequently to avoid extra work and to help keep the aquatic organisms healthy. Performing a weekly routine with around a 15% water change should be enough to maintain harmony in the aquarium, but 20-30% can also be made. This procedure may be done by siphoning the water out of the tank (similar way as explained under regular vacuuming) without having to remove any organisms or any other components out of the tank, and making sure the new water has similar properties as the water already in the tank.
Preventative Care In general, to maintain good water quality standards and healthy living organisms in an aquarium tank, make sure proper maintenance is accomplished.
The following table indicates a recommended routine to follow:
Daily
Check fish and aquarium appearance Feed fish and other organisms and remove uneaten food Check water temperature Make sure system and equipment is working properly
Weekly
Clean tank hood Check water levels. Add more water if necessary Check presence of algae in glass and ornaments. Clean if required Check pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels 20-30% water change (optional)
Fortnightly
Trim or remove dead leaves or plants Vacuum the gravel Stir water surface and remove waste 40-50% water change is recommended if the weekly water change has not been done.
Every 1-3 Months
Check entire filter system and replace carbon in filter or parts required Service air pump and power filter (if applicable)
For saltwater tank, clean protein skimmer Every 6 Months Check light system Check U.V. tubes. Replace if necessary
Notes to consider: The right amount of water being changed (%) will depend on the amount of fish in the tank, tank size, feeding schedule and filtration system. When removing algae from the tank glass, use a non-scratching brush or a sponge, making sure they are free from any chemical substances or cleaning product. The algae from the ornamental figures carry beneficial bacteria that might be favourable for some of the fish in the tank. It is recommended to clean these figures preferably when excessive algae are present.
EMERGENCIES There are certain situations that you might come across unexpectedly when having an aquarium tank and knowing how to act quickly may help resolve the problem and avoid further consequences. Emergencies that might occur may be sudden release of toxins, tank water leakage, spills, electrical problems, or the breakage of the whole aquarium tank. All these situations can be avoided by planning ahead important details to be considered when thinking of having an aquarium. For example, in the case of electrical outages you can have an emergency backup generator. This way you can continue to maintain power when the mains supply is down. This is important to keep pumps, filters lighting and heating going. You might also look into battery powered appliances such as pumps which can be used for backup. For breakages and leakages to aquarium tanks you should always keep mopping up equipment on-hand. Commercial aquariums are designed with floor grids leading to underground drainage systems and soakaways. Home set-ups are often in living rooms which may or may not be carpeted. Most commercial scale aquarists have extra tanks, e.g. quarantine tanks, which can be used to house the fish and other organisms whilst the main tank is repaired. It is as well to ensure you have sufficient temporary alternative tanks in terms of size and volume to stock the fish until the main tank is once again inhabitable. This also means keeping enough water, saltwater or dechlorinated freshwater, on site to keep the fish comfortable during this transition. Extra tanks can also be used to store fish if high levels of toxins or other fluctuations in ideal water conditions are noted.